Written by Carrie Edelstein

Anyone who knows me knows I am not a food critic or well versed on menu selections. I refer those readers to the other wonderful food publications and blogs in St. Louis. While I’m not a picky eater, I’d prefer a fresh salad over almost anything, and great bread with a bottled water. I have an open mind though, and am fortunate enough to have the privilege to write about what I have truly enjoyed or experienced. No false news here.

With that said, I truly enjoyed my recent experience– and the food– at Dia’s Room at the Four Seasons St. Louis. I was invited to attend Chef Gerard Craft’s newest dining concept- a 13-course menu in a private room for 10 within the Cinder House kitchen. And while his reputation alone as a James Beard Award Winning Chef is a given for enticing guests, the service, the atmosphere, and the events and conversation that occur over the evening are all also the finest portions of the night.

Shortly after my husband and I checked in at the Cinder House host station, we were escorted as a group with the other Dia’s Room guests via the patio to a back room with a separate entrance where we would be dining. The intimate setting consists of a long wood table for 10, surrounded by dark walls, an open cabinet for beverage storage, a large portrait of Craft’s late nanny, “Dia,” and a door to the kitchen, which is shared with Cinder House. The other guests at our table were a group of three women celebrating a birthday and an older couple who had booked a return visit. The three remaining seats were not set on this particular evening. Place cards designated where we would sit, which I appreciated.

After mutual introductions, we were greeted by Erik Kessler who oversees Dia’s Room. His passion for the experience and concept was evident in his opening remarks about what to expect and a warm welcome. Throughout the evening, he answered any and all questions about the food, the preparation, the history of Craft’s restaurants in St. Louis, etc. Craft personally introduced each course and also shared stories, answering questions with responses so humble and unrehearsed that it almost seemed we were sitting in Craft’s personal dining space at home… just friends sharing an evening together. Anthony Geary, the sommelier who oversees the wine pairing program, was equally as knowledgeable and approachable, and an exceptional addition to the evening.

THE COURSES

The evening began with a Yam Cocktail that reminded me of the “Lift Off” I used to enjoy at Sardella. There are no true similarities in the ingredients; only that they are both the perfect Apertivo Cocktails– smooth, light and a refreshing way to ready the palette for more! Next was the Bacalao Lattice, a rice cake-like beautiful and tasty combination of young coconut and lime.

Morcela Meringue followed, which was a delightful explosion of passionfruit. After that came one of my favorite dishes of the evening: Scallop Pirao. This is where I don’t have the appropriately eloquent culinary words to describe this as anything other than utterly delicious. The texture was almost like a healthier version of crab rangoon– a crunchy chip with a creamy inside. Instead of fried wonton and imitation crab though, somehow Craft magically created the perfect scallop chip with a tender inside of pure heaven for the taste buds.

Scallop Pirao: Gari, Dende Oil. Pictured with the Yam Cocktail.

Next came another favorite course of mine: Dia’s Bread. Kessler confirmed my instant palate recognition of the time I first tasted this famous cheese bread (Pao de Queue) in the early days of Niche in Benton Park, stating many of the menu items are in fact Niche-inspired. With his resemblance to Chris Martin of Coldplay, Kessler’s words began to sound like the lyrics to the soundtrack of Craft’s career, and the history of St. Louis’ culinary explosion. This familiar course was served as a mini sandwich bite with country ham and onion creme fraiche. I wasn’t able to snap a picture because my husband wrecked the plate while I was speaking with Craft about Cecelia Assunco, AKA his nanny, “Dia.” Craft shared fond childhood memories of her making the cheese bread, a staple in her native Brazil. With her rendered portrait hanging just above Craft as he spoke, the spirit of each course became more meaningful from that point forward. It’s one thing to fondly recall a recipe and share it among friends and family. But to be able to recreate something so special and pleasing, and serve it to the general public… that’s truly a gift many will appreciate.

Geary became a more prevalent part of the evening with his first pour of a pairing of Dom Pérignon to go with the next course. Called Frozen Macadamia Nut, Golden Osetra Caviar was served underneath stacked pieces of Crispy Milk, atop Smoked Banana Caramel. Geary said there was no better pairing for caviar than the finest champagne. And he was correct.

Frozen Macadamia Nut: Golden Osetra Caviar, Smoked Banana Caramel, Crispy Milk

The courses then shifted to more entrée selections. I had to beg my husband not to ask for seconds of the Madai Snapper, served with coconut and fingerlimes. We both love seafood, and this particular preparation was outstanding. We were seven for seven on ranking how much we enjoyed each dish, a welcome change from previous supper club/chef’s table experiences throughout the years where “the 7th inning stretch” seemed like a good time to leave the table. We couldn’t wait for what was next.

Madai Snapper: Crispy Scales, Coconut, Fingerlimes

The Etna Rosso comes from the nerello mascalese grape, grown in the foothills of a still active volcano in Sicily.

The Foiejoada, or black bean Brazilian stew, arrived with a glass of Etna Rosso (see bottle above). Geary spoke of the volcanic foothills of Sicily where the grapes were grown as if he had just bottled the wine from the source and brought it back to our table. His knowledge was unsurpassable, and his demeanor was full of passion with each pour, all of which made each sip seem that much tastier. The stew was outstanding with every bite. The little pops of crunch enhanced the bean and garnish flavorings.

Next up: Caipirinha Gummy. This was a refreshing bite of a Brazilian cocktail in a gummy form. I always tell my kids never to accept an unwrapped gummy from anyone, but I might have to make an addendum that having one from Gerard Craft is okay… when they’re 21! This was a fun dish that sparked interesting conversations around the table. Our small talk went from polite work-type chatter to deeper intel about dating apps and unusual “swipe right” experiences.

The Clarice wine pairing came with an interesting story about winemaker Adam Lee and his journey to creating a line named after his grandmother. Greary shared details about his friendship with Lee and how he secured the limited collection wine exclusively for Cinder House. I really don’t drink wine at all, as in not even an occasional glass. But this particular evening, each tasting was magnificent.

The next course was the only one I didn’t finish, solely based on a childhood experience. I did enjoy the small taste I took though of the Aged Duck, prepared with beetroot, hibiscus and honey vinegar before my husband devoured his portion and then mine as well. It most certainly pleased my eye as seen below.

Aged Duck: Beetroot, Hibiscus, Honey Vinegar

A sweet dessert wine- my favorite of the evening.

Embered Pineapple: Sweet Cream and Chamomile

The last few courses were all exceptional as well. The grilled pineapple with sweet cream and chamomile was beautifully presented beneath a bed of flowers. And the Brigadeiros, a traditional Brazilian chocolate dessert, came with a chocolate effervescent. This finale, paired with a Madeira wine, truly left me speechless.

At the end of the evening, I was starstruck, and asked Craft if we could take a picture in front of the portrait of “Dia.” He politely said, “Sure,” and then thanked everyone for coming to the dinner. I highly recommend giving Dia’s Room a try. It’s open for reservations on Thursday and Friday nights, or the entire room can be reserved at once for holiday parties and other gatherings. The cost is $125/person. Wine pairings are at an additional cost.

https://cinderhousestl.com/diasroom/